Platinum

Platinum is a silvery-white metal. In its pure form it is malleable and ductile and does not oxidize in air. Jewellery is rarely pure platinum. Ring platinum is usually around 95% platinum, which is why the stamp reads something like Pt950: 950 parts of platinum per thousand.

The remainder is other metals. Canada's Precious Metals Marking Regulations allow “platinum”, “plat.” or “platine” on an article made of platinum, or of platinum alloyed with iridium or ruthenium, when that metal makes up at least 95 per cent of its metallic content. The US FTC Jewelry Guides, which are US rules, reserve an unqualified “Platinum” for products that are 950 parts per thousand platinum throughout, and allow numbered marks such as 900Pt. or 850Pt. when the number shows the platinum content. UK hallmarking uses standards of 850, 900, 950 and 999. For how Canadian stamps work, see precious metal quality marks.

Weight is the first thing most people notice. Platinum is a white, dense, heavy metal, and large pieces can be heavy. The table shows the densities of the pure metals; real alloys differ a little, so read it as a comparison rather than a spec for a particular ring.

Heavier is not better or worse in itself. Some wearers like the heft of a platinum band, while others notice it more on a bracelet or a long necklace. If you can, try a piece on before you order.

GIA calls platinum very wear resistant and says it will not lose its shape over decades of wear the way other metals do. It also describes platinum as making sturdy prongs and as suited to delicate design work.

Strong is not the same as unmarked. Platinum develops a patina over time that gives it an antique look, and the patina can be polished away if you prefer a shinier finish. Platinum does not rely on plating for its colour: it keeps its natural white and does not tarnish, although some makers rhodium plate platinum for extra shine and scratch resistance.

Platinum is considered hypoallergenic, and it is a common alternative if you are allergic to copper or nickel, both of which are found in some gold alloys. Hypoallergenic means a lower risk, not no risk. The remaining 5% is other metals, so if you have a known metal allergy, ask what the alloy contains before you order. The same advice applies to white gold and rose gold: if copper or nickel is the problem, platinum is the alternative.

Without quoting prices, four things shape what a platinum piece costs.

• Purity. Platinum jewellery is about 95% platinum. 14K gold is about 58.3% gold, so more of a platinum ring is precious metal.
• Density. The same ring holds more metal by weight, as the table shows.
• Working it. Pure platinum melts at about 1,768 °C, against about 1,064 °C for gold. Platinum must be heated to 3,872 °F (about 2,130 °C) to be cast, a temperature early Europeans could not reach.
• Supply. In 2024 South Africa mined about 126,000 of the world's 179,000 kilograms of platinum, and Canada about 5,700.

Platinum prices also move from year to year, so the metal part of any quote changes over time.

Platinum suits you if you want a white metal that stays white without plating, have sensitive skin, or want a secure hold on a stone and do not mind the weight. White gold gives the same look with re-plating as upkeep, and palladium is the lighter platinum-group option. The gold vs platinum guide compares them side by side.

To see metals on a real ring, use the design studio or visit a showroom. If you are planning a custom engagement ring or wedding bands, settle your metal early.