Figaro chain

Figaro is not really a style of its own but a popular variation of the curb chain. A number of standard links, usually three, precede one elongated link, and the sequence continues the whole way through. Some sellers describe it as three or more small round links followed by one elongated oval link.

The notation 3:1 is shorthand for that repeat: three short links to one long one. Because the number of short links can change, ask what the repeat is on the chain you are shown instead of assuming. Since it belongs to the curb family, the links interlock and lie flat, which is also true of the Cuban link.

The Figaro is widely described as Italian and is tied to an Italian family of jewellers and goldsmiths. That account comes from retailer and trade writing, not a museum or a maker’s archive, so treat it as tradition, not proof.

The name is another open question. It may come from the character Figaro, who appears in Rossini’s The Barber of Seville and Mozart’s The Marriage of Figaro, but the derivation is a suggestion, not a settled fact. What can safely be said is that the style is widely associated with Italy.

The four styles are easiest to separate by the link pattern. A Figaro is the only one here that deliberately alternates short and long links, which gives it a rhythm that a Cuban link, a Franco and a rope chain do not have. If you are unsure which of the four you are looking at, lay the chain flat and compare how the links repeat along a few centimetres.

Start with numbers: width in millimetres, length, weight in grams and the repeat pattern. Two Figaro chains of the same width can look different if one has three short links and the other more, and they can weigh very differently if one is hollow.

Ask whether the links are solid or hollow. A solid chain is metal throughout; a hollow one is a shell around an empty core, so it weighs less for the same size and has a thinner wall to absorb a knock. Look closely at the long links for dents or flattening. Solid is the more forgiving choice for everyday wear.

Marking works the same way for every gold chain sold in Canada. The Precious Metals Marking Act does not require a karat stamp, yet if the piece carries one it should be accompanied by a trademark, apart from UK-hallmarked and foreign-authorized pieces. Precious metal quality marks explains how to read the stamps, and the karat entry covers the numbers behind 10K and 14K.

Clasps fasten the chain so that it can be undone and redone. Ask what type is on the one you are shown, whether it has a safety latch and whether it feels secure on the chain’s weight.

Yes. Figaro chains are often worn with a pendant such as a cross or medallion. Bring the pendant and try it on the actual chain, because the loop on the pendant (the bail) has to slide over the chain, and the long links can change how the pendant sits.

Chains can also be designed to order. Diamond Bros’ custom jewellery design service covers chains, and the design studio is a place to start with metal and length. You can compare widths in person at a showroom or in the necklace and men’s collections.