Franco chain

The Franco is a chain defined by its square cut. It shows a V-shaped pattern on two sides, with the other two sides resembling a curb chain, the same interlocking family as the Cuban link. It is more open than a Spiga or foxtail chain, which it resembles at a distance.

Descriptions of the pattern vary from seller to seller, and some put the V on all four faces, so the square cross-section and the V-shaped links are the dependable features. The chain is said to be named after the Italian jeweller who designed it, but the story rests on retailer writing and gives no name or date, so treat it as tradition.

The easiest way to tell chains apart is to look at how the links sit and at the cross-section. The Franco is the square one. A Cuban link is flat, a rope chain is a spiral and a Figaro chain alternates short and long links. Lay a chain on a table and turn it a quarter turn at a time to compare the faces, since the cross-section is the clearest difference.

The style name alone tells you little about strength. What decides how a chain holds up is the width, the amount of metal and the way it is made. Ask for the width in millimetres and the weight in grams, and ask whether the links are solid or hollow.

A solid chain is metal throughout. A hollow chain is a shell around an empty core, so it weighs less for the same size and has a thinner wall to absorb a knock. Solid is the more forgiving choice for a chain you plan to wear every day; hollow can suit someone who wants width without weight and will take some care. Neither is wrong if you know which one you are buying.

It can, and the square profile is worth testing with the pendant in your hand. The loop on the pendant, called the bail, has to slide over the chain, and a square chain can look different from a round one beside the same pendant. Bring the pendant when you look at chains, and compare two widths.

Weight limits for a given width vary with how the chain is built, so judge by how it looks and hangs.

Canada’s Precious Metals Marking Act makes a karat stamp optional, but it sets a condition once one is used: a registered (or applied-for) trademark has to be applied to the article as well, with exceptions for pieces bearing a UK hallmark or a mark authorized by a foreign government. On a Franco sold here, a stamp such as 14K should usually sit beside a trademark. Precious metal quality marks explains how to read them, and the karat entry explains the numbers.

Chains are fastened with clasps, small lever mechanisms. Ask what type is on the chain you are shown, whether it has a safety latch and whether it feels secure on the chain’s real weight.

Chains can be designed to order. Diamond Bros’ custom jewellery design service covers chains, and the design studio is the place to start with metal and length. To see widths side by side, visit a showroom, or browse the necklace and men’s collections. Bring a chain you already wear, so the width and length can be matched.