Bezel setting

A bezel is a thin strip of metal that is pushed or hammered around a gem to hold it in place. The rim wraps around the girdle, the narrow band around the widest part of the stone, instead of gripping it at a few points the way a prong setting does.

That is why a bezel protects well. It helps keep the centre stone from falling out and shields the girdle from bumps, bangs and other accidents. The result is a smooth, protective border around the stone.

A bezel is a type of setting, meaning it describes how the stone is held. It can sit inside many ring styles, from a solitaire to a ring with a halo.

In a full bezel the metal completely encircles the edge of the stone, which gives maximum protection. A partial bezel, often called a half bezel, leaves some sections of the stone exposed.

The practical difference is a trade between protection and exposure. The more metal around the girdle, the less of the stone's edge is open to knocks. A bezel lets slightly less light into the stone than prongs do. A partial bezel covers less of the edge, so it should let in somewhat more than a full one, though the difference is not quantified.

It is one of the better choices. GIA calls the bezel one of the most protective styles and notes that there are no prongs to snag on gloves, which it calls helpful for nurses. If your hands are busy at work or at the gym, a smooth rim of metal is less likely to catch than raised claws.

A bezel is also a sound partner for stones with fragile points. GIA recommends it for diamonds with sharp points that are more likely to chip, such as princess cut and marquise cut, and says a prong or bezel setting is essential for a pear shape.

A bezel still deserves care. The advice to remove an engagement ring for exercise, gardening and other rough tasks applies to every setting.

Both effects are possible, and they come from different things. A band of metal around the girdle can make the diamond's circumference look larger. At the same time, a bezel covers more of the edge and allows slightly less light into the stone, so it shows less of the stone's brilliance than a prong setting.

Whether that matters depends on the stone. If you want the most light possible, a prong setting is the safer bet. If you prefer a calm, solid look and a larger-looking outline, the bezel is a good fit.

The only reliable test is to try both on your own hand with the stone you are considering. Light changes with the room, so view the ring in a showroom and near a window.

Choose a bezel if protection and a smooth profile come first, if you wear gloves, or if your centre stone has pointed corners. Choose prongs if you want the most light and the most exposed stone.

If you are still weighing the two, start with the shape of the stone, then the way you live. A halo, by contrast, surrounds the centre stone with smaller stones rather than wrapping its edge in metal.

To start a design brief, use the design studio, or visit a showroom to look at finished pieces in the engagement ring collection. A custom engagement ring starts from the setting and shape you have in mind.