Channel setting

A channel setting secures a row of gemstones within a narrow groove in the metal, so the stones sit between two parallel walls. The stones are the same size and set edge to edge, with no metal between them.

The result is one unbroken line of stones with metal along both sides, and only the tops of the stones showing. It looks like a single strip of diamonds rather than a cluster of individual settings.

A channel is a type of setting: it describes how the stones are held. You will most often meet it in a wedding band or as side stones along the shoulders of an engagement ring. For a band that carries stones all the way round, see the eternity band.

All three hold a stone in place, but they cover very different amounts of it. A prong setting grips a stone at a few points and leaves most of it exposed. A bezel setting wraps the stone's edge in metal. A channel setting holds a row of stones between two metal walls, so the metal runs beside the stones instead of between them or around each one.

Pavé is a separate idea, and has its own entry. GIA lists channel as a setting type, which is about how stones are held, and pavé as a setting style, which is about the overall arrangement of stones.

Sometimes, but it is the main thing to plan around. Most rings can be resized up or down by a size or two, but channel-set rings cannot be resized easily, and a ring with stones all the way around the band, such as a full eternity band, can be very difficult to adjust.

Ganoksin, a technical site for jewellers, makes a related point: a ring with stones cannot be stretched on a mandrel, because of the stress on the stone, and there is a danger of breaking the gem or popping it out of its setting.

Put simply, the further the channel runs round the band, the less room there is to change the size. If the stones sit only across the front, there is usually plain metal to work with; if they go all the way round, treat the size as fixed. Ask a jeweller about your particular design, measure your finger properly before you order, and read about ring size before you choose.

Because the stones are held between two walls and sit edge to edge, GIA describes them as the same size. That is why channels suit matched stones: a row of identical diamonds along a band, or a pair of accent stones either side of a centre.

In an engagement ring the channel often appears on the shoulders, alongside a centre stone held by prongs. It can be combined with a three-stone ring layout or a cathedral frame.

For a wedding band, a channel can run a short way across the front or further round. Because the length is a design choice, decide how far it should go while the band is still on the drawing board, and think about whether you may need to change the size later.

Check any setting for loose stones. Press gently on a stone: if it moves, it is loose. A gap between a stone and its setting is another warning sign. Take the ring to a jeweller as soon as you see either.

Clean the ring with warm water, mild soap and a soft toothbrush, and avoid abrasive cleaners and steam cleaners. A soft brush can also reach into the groove along the edges of the stones.

To start a design brief for a band or ring with channel-set stones, use the design studio or talk it through at a showroom. You can also browse the wedding band collection.