Prong setting

A prong is a narrow metal support, and a prong setting uses a small group of them, usually four or six, to hold a gemstone in its mounting. The metal rises from the part of the ring called the head and presses over the edge of the stone. Because the prongs touch only the rim, this style leaves most of the gemstone exposed and shows off its shape and brilliance particularly well.

The prong setting is a type of setting, meaning it describes how the stone is held. The look of the whole ring is a style, such as a solitaire or a halo, and either can be built on prongs. For other ways to hold a stone, see the bezel setting and the channel setting.

The rule of thumb is that the larger the stone, the more prongs it needs. For a round brilliant, four or six is the usual range, and the choice changes how much of the stone you see and how much backup the setting has.

A six-prong setting offers more protection than a four-prong one should a prong break, while four prongs mean less metal on the stone, which can make the diamond look more impressive. Four prongs can also make a round stone look slightly squarer, while six emphasize its round outline. Neither choice is wrong. If you work with your hands, the extra prongs of a six-prong ring are a second line of defence.

Prongs come in three main styles. Rounded prongs have a minimalist look. Claw prongs taper to fine points for a sharper, more defined outline. V-shaped prongs are designed to protect pointed corners and are commonly used on heart, princess, pear and marquise cuts.

The shape of your stone decides how much the prong style matters. A princess cut needs its corners protected, with round, claw or, ideally, V-shaped prongs, and a bezel is the most protective option. A marquise calls for V-prongs at the pointed ends, and for a pear a prong or bezel setting is essential to help prevent chipping.

Size matters as well. Skimping on the size and number of prongs risks losing the diamond, while bulky prongs cover more of the surface and hide its edges. A good setting sits between the two.

Prongs are the part of the ring that meets the world, so they need an occasional look. GIA suggests having them checked every six months, and if that feels too often, using your wedding anniversary as a reminder. At home you can press gently on the stone: if it moves, the prong is loose. A gap between the stone and the setting is another warning sign. Take the ring to a jeweller as soon as you notice either.

For day-to-day wear, take an engagement ring off for exercise and gardening; even washing dishes with it on is not ideal. Clean it with warm water, mild soap and a soft toothbrush, and avoid abrasive household cleaners and steam cleaners. Prongs also have raised edges that can catch on fabric.

How long prongs last depends on the metal, the design and how the ring is worn, so a jeweller looking at your own ring is the right judge of whether a prong needs attention.

Choose prongs when you want the stone to be the star and want as much light as possible to reach it. The prong setting is one of the most widely used because it holds a stone securely while letting in maximum light. A classic four-prong solitaire is often more affordable because it is simple.

Think again if you wear gloves all day or snag easily. A bezel has no prongs to snag on gloves, which is helpful for nurses, for example. In that case compare a bezel in person.

A custom engagement ring starts from the shape and setting you describe, such as a four-prong or six-prong. To start a design brief, use the design studio. You can also see finished rings in the engagement ring collection or at a showroom.