Cathedral setting

In a cathedral setting, arches of metal rise from the shank, the part of the ring that circles the finger, and carry the centre setting. These upward curves, or shoulders, frame the gemstone and raise it above the band.

It helps to separate two ideas. GIA's guide to ring settings splits them into types, which describe how a stone is held, and styles, which describe the overall design. Cathedral is a style. The stone itself is still held by a type of setting such as prongs or a bezel, which sits in the head, the part of the mounting that holds the centre stone.

So a cathedral ring is not an alternative to a solitaire or a halo. GIA lists all three as styles, so they can be combined: the cathedral describes the way the band meets the head.

It adds visual height. The arches create a more prominent, structured appearance and let the gemstone stand out, and it can make the ring look more substantial while keeping a classic look.

It is a taller silhouette than a ring whose head sits straight on the band, and that is the whole point. If you want a ring that looks substantial from the side, the arches deliver that. If you want one that sits close to the finger, ask to see a lower design before you decide.

Height varies with the design. When you compare rings, ask for the height from the base of the band to the top of the stone in millimetres, and try each one on rather than comparing photographs.

A raised stone is more visible, and a taller ring has more of itself standing above the finger, so it may catch on sleeves, gloves and bags more readily than a low one. How much depends on the design, so think about your day. Take any engagement ring off for exercise, gardening and anything else rough, and watch for the stone moving or a gap in the setting.

If you wear gloves for work, compare the cathedral with a lower setting in person. A bezel head, which GIA says has no prongs to snag on gloves, can sit inside a cathedral frame and keep the profile smoother.

The arches also add metal and shaping compared with a plain band. Ask for the price of the same stone in a cathedral and in a plain mounting before you decide.

This is worth settling before you buy. Because the arches rise from the shank beside the head, they shape the space where a wedding band lies. A straight band may sit snug against the ring or leave a small gap, depending on how steeply the shoulders rise.

The simple answer is to try the band you like with the ring on the same hand, and look from the side as well as from above. A try-on is the best test. If a straight band leaves a gap you dislike, ask about a band shaped to follow the arch, or choose a bridal set designed as a pair. An eternity band is another option to try with the ring.

You can browse wedding bands to try beside the ring, and the design studio is where you can start a design brief. See custom engagement rings and wedding bands for how those orders start.