East-west engagement rings: a sideways take on a classic

North-south is the direction along the finger. In a conventional ring the long axis of the stone runs that way. In an east-west setting the stone is turned a quarter turn, so it lies across the finger from side to side. The stone itself is not different. Only the way it is mounted changes.

The east-west setting is a contemporary twist that works especially well in minimalist or bezel-set styles and can make even a modestly sized diamond appear larger and more distinctive. GIA's guide to engagement ring shapes describes an east-west marquise as a bold, modern twist on the traditional look, and its pear guide mentions a horizontal setting as a distinctive, contemporary option. The stone is the same in every case, so the questions that matter are about shape, protection and fit.

Any elongated shape can be turned, so the choice comes down to how much length the stone has and how vulnerable its ends are. The oval, the marquise and the pear suit it best. The rectangular emerald cut and radiant cut are also elongated, so the same geometry applies, although GIA does not single them out for this setting.

A round stone has no long axis, so there is nothing to turn. For a wider look at outlines and cut styles, see the diamond shapes guide. The table repeats what GIA's guides say about each shape and adds the east-west angle.

GIA's shape guides say elongated shapes such as the oval, marquise and pear can look larger than a round diamond of the same weight, and that an east-west setting can add to the effect. A likely reason is geometry: with the stone's longest dimension spanning the finger, the diamond fills more of the ring's width than it would along the finger.

There is also a trade-off. An elongated stone can make fingers appear longer and more slender. GIA does not say what happens to that effect when the stone is turned, but with the long axis across the finger it is reasonable to expect less lengthening and a wider, more graphic look. If you want to compare the two, look at both on your own hand. For why ovals read large in particular, see why oval diamonds look bigger.

Check the stone's measurements, not only its weight. A stone that is 9 mm long will sit about 9 mm wide across the finger, and that width decides how it sits beside the neighbouring fingers.

In a north-south ring the points of a marquise or pear face the fingertip and the hand. East-west, they face the sides of the finger, where they are more likely to meet a neighbouring finger, a glove or a pocket. The points are the vulnerable parts of both shapes. It recommends V-prongs on a marquise's tips, a halo that softens them with a border of smaller diamonds, and, for a pear, a V-prong or a bezel setting that wraps the whole stone.

A bezel protects the girdle and has a smooth outline that is less likely to catch on clothing or gloves, which makes it a practical choice for people who work with their hands. A prong setting lets more light into the stone, and the prongs should be checked about every six months. A halo setting adds more small stones to keep clean and check. The engagement ring settings guide walks through each option.

An oval has no points to protect, and its rounded edges make it less prone to chipping than shapes with sharp corners.

A band that works for a north-south ring may not work for a sideways one. A broader band gives a bolder look and a thinner one a more delicate look. With an east-west stone the head is wide, so the choice of shoulders and band width shapes how the whole ring looks from above and from the side.

Three questions are worth asking when the ring is designed.

• How low does the stone sit? A raised, cathedral-style setting may be more likely to catch on clothing or objects, so a lower setting is worth considering if snagging worries you.
• How will a wedding band sit beside it? A wide head may leave a gap next to a straight band, so a contoured band, or a plain design that lets the two rings sit together, may suit better. The article on how to stack rings covers common pairings.
• Can the ring be resized? Settle the ring size before the design is final. Some settings are harder to resize: channel-set rings can be difficult, bar-set rings more so, tension-set rings very difficult and sometimes impossible, and pavé-set bands can also be harder.

It suits someone who likes a clean, low, contemporary look and does not need the ring to follow a traditional pattern. It asks more of the design than a standard solitaire: the stone should be viewed in the orientation it will be worn, the ends need protection, and the band should be planned around the stone's width. For the bow-tie, look at the diamond face-up, without magnification, under normal lighting at a normal viewing distance, as if it were worn on your hand.

If you would rather not commit to one direction, a pear gives you more orientations to try, because GIA mentions it being worn point away, point toward you or horizontal. You can explore shapes and settings in the design studio, talk through the options in the custom engagement ring service, or browse the engagement ring collection for a starting point. The showrooms page lists where to see rings in person.